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The Evolution of the Parka and Its Impact on Modern Women's Fashion Design                                                                                                     
2019
Popular Literature and Art, 05


Keywords: Parka; Pop Culture; Functionality; Women's Fashion Design



AbstractAfter years of cyclical cultural trends in the fashion world, the parka has maintained its prominent status among popular items. This paper analyzes and explores the relationship between parka culture and people's lifestyles, as well as the reasons behind its popularity, from various perspectives including its origins, cultural development, and contemporary applications. It aims to provide some reflection and inspiration for parka design.



IntroductionSince its debut as military attire in the 1950s, the parka has undergone several decades of development and transformation. Originally a functional men's garment, it has evolved into a fashionable women's wear, transitioning from a niche subculture to a widespread trend on runways and streets. The parka has subtly emerged as a leading force in global fashion, becoming a standout example of modernized classics

1. The 'Eskimo' People and Parka CultureThe term "parka," also known as "anorak," refers to a type of short coat with a hood, derived from the Inuit word for "animal skin." According to the Concise Encyclopedia Britannica, a parka is a thigh-length outer garment designed for cold weather, traditionally made from materials like deer or seal skin. The term "Eskimo," meaning "eaters of raw meat," is another name for the Inuit people who inhabit the icy, snowy regions of the Arctic.

To withstand the harsh conditions, the Eskimo people developed one of the most effective cold-weather garments. The parka has a distinctive design: it features a hood, connects the upper and lower parts of the garment seamlessly, and typically has no front opening or buttons. The hood is often trimmed with fur for added protection. Additionally, Eskimos would regularly apply fish oil to the coat’s surface to maintain its water resistance. This unique adaptation to their environment, along with their specialized sewing techniques and materials, has become a cherished aspect of their cultural heritage.
Figure 1: Original Parka Worn by Eskimo People

The parka worn by women, also known as the *Amauti*, is not only made from various materials but also features significant functionality. The hood on the back of the women's coat can cover a two-year-old child, aiming to keep the child warm and protected from frostbite and wind chill, while also fostering the mother-child bond. Its decorative colors and structural design reflect the artistic and skilled craftsmanship of Inuit women in garment making. This type of coat, made from reindeer or seal skin, is the prototype of the parka.

 2.The Historical Evolution of Parkas in American Military Uniform CultureInitially, the primitive parkas made from animal skins and furs in the Arctic Circle were not widely popular. In the early 20th century, with the advent of open-cockpit aircraft, ordinary fabrics proved inadequate for pilots facing the extreme cold and strong winds at high altitudes. By the 1930s, parkas underwent modifications to become part of early military aviation gear, evolving into the iconic shearling flight jacket. However, as aircraft technology advanced, cockpit environments improved, and fabric innovations emerged, lightweight synthetic fiber parkas eventually replaced the bulky leather flight jackets. This transition highlights how early parkas, as symbols of America's quick and lightweight culture, were significantly influenced by technological advancements.

The U.S. military N-3B parka, also known as the "snorkel parka," was originally issued by the U.S. Air Force during World War II for use in extreme cold climates. It remains one of the longest-serving military garments in the history of the U.S. Air Force. Influenced by the wartime sentiment and the subsequent surplus of military goods after the war, the N-3B parka was replicated and adapted for civilian markets, reflecting the admiration of the military image and making it available to the general public.

In 1950, the "fishtail parka," also known as the fishtail parka, was first used as a military garment by U.S. forces during the Korean War. The design allowed wearers to tie the split hem around their legs to retain more heat, while folding it up at the back increased mobility. The U.S. military categorized the fishtail parka into several types, with the M-48 being the first actual production model. However, due to its high quality and cost, it could not be mass-produced. The subsequent M-51 fishtail parka (see Figure 2) was more affordable and suitable for large-scale production. It featured multifunctionality, including a removable inner lining for easier cleaning and only one sleeve button.

Figure 2: M51 Series U.S. Military Field Jacket
Figure 3: British Mod Culture Riding a Little Lamb
By the 1960s in the UK, with the continued economic growth and the influence of new ideas from the US and mainland Europe, young people and the working class were playing increasingly important roles in various fields. With the rise of "Youth Culture," the fishtail parka became a symbol of the Mod subculture. The Mod community, known for their pursuit of a glamorous lifestyle and love for riding Vespas (see Figure 3), often wore parkas over their suits to protect their suits from rain and dirt while riding. This dapper and eclectic fashion trend can still frequently be seen on the runway today.

3. The Evolution of the Parka in Modern Women's Fashion Design“Fashion” and “war” were closely linked at the time. From the simplification and practicality of daytime ready-to-wear collections to the strategic migration of haute couture evening wear from Paris to New York, fashion was deeply intertwined with the broader historical context. However, nothing could hinder women’s persistent love for beauty and hope. The Parka culture has had a significant impact on women's fashion design, primarily reflected in the adoption of color and style elements, the functional application of design techniques, and the alignment with design philosophies.
3. Interpretation of the Parka in Modern Women's Fashion Design
 1. Application of Parka in Cold-Weather Clothing Design

In the book *The Gentleman’s Wardrobe Bible* by Liu Ruipu and Zhou Changhua, the Parka is featured in the chapter on "The Major Trends in American Leisure Culture Established by the Lower Class," alongside the British "Barbour Jacket." Early leather and fur-collared flight jackets, which retained the original Parka’s basic features, became popular in the fashion world due to their rugged appearance, symbolizing the spirit of adventure.

One notable example is the Canadian clothing brand "Canada Goose" (Figure 4), founded in 1957. Focusing on "cold protection," Canada Goose became renowned for its Parkas. Each Canada Goose jacket goes through 13 production processes and extensive handcrafting. The classic "Snow Mantra Parka" is one of the oldest designs, originally intended for Arctic workers, and has since evolved into a uniform capable of withstanding extreme temperatures as low as -70°C. This exceptional functional design has had a lasting impact on subsequent Canada Goose Parkas.

In terms of style, whether it is the "Expedition Parka" or the flight jacket series, the designs echo the early Parkas used as military supplies by the U.S. Army. Conceptually, Canada Goose started with cold-weather clothing and embraces a vision of Canadians pursuing grand dreams and embarking on remarkable journeys to confront the harshest environments on Earth. Its outstanding achievements have shaped a brand ideology akin to the Eskimo spirit, who have long battled for survival in the Arctic.

2. Parkas in the World of Fur
Mr&Mrs Italy, also known as "The Fur Couple," is an Italian luxury brand founded in 2009. It made a stunning impression on the fashion world with its retro-inspired parkas combined with colorful furs (Figure 5). These parkas feature detachable fur linings, often made from rabbit, fox, sea otter, and marten fur. Modern young people can still find echoes of the parkas' Mod culture origins in how they are worn—pairing parkas with suits. Fashion enthusiasts often leave their parkas open to showcase the vibrant fur lining, expressing individuality. The brand’s website even offers a DIY design option for fur pairing. A classic example of fur parkas in popular culture is the portrayal of Jun Ji-hyun in the Korean drama "My Love from the Star," where her fur parka, paired with boots against a snowy backdrop, evokes the imagery of American soldiers stationed in the Arctic.

Figure 5: Mr&Mrs Italy Fall/Winter 2017/18

3. The Freedom of Patchwork Parkas
The Japanese niche brand Sacai, founded by designer Chitose Abe in 1999, is not exclusively focused on parkas. However, her innovative understanding and application of parka elements in women's fashion have been refreshing. Chitose Abe is greatly influenced by the styles of Rei Kawakubo (b. 1942) and Junya Watanabe (b. 1961), resulting in her designs often showcasing a rich layering effect.

Figure 6

As shown in Figure 6, Sacai’s Fall/Winter 2017 haute couture collection features Chitose Abe’s interpretation of the parka. The collection integrates a neutral, rugged parka with feminine elements such as knitting, pleats, satin, lace, and wool in a mixed design. The garments are characterized by asymmetric and multi-element combinations with layered styling. Despite the intense mix of designs, the influence of the parka remains evident for several reasons: Firstly, the military green, a distinctive color of the parka as military apparel, is preserved, creating an identifiable color recognition system. Secondly, the classic A-line silhouette of the parka and the flying jacket are prominently highlighted. Thirdly, functional elements such as zippers, drawstrings, and large pockets are very noticeable. This patchwork technique gives the parka style an experimental edge, overturning traditional gender concepts, spanning seasons, and transcending materials, with Chitose Abe creating a new parka aesthetic.

4. Summary
The evolution of the parka has been influenced to some extent by economic and technological advancements. During periods of economic growth, outdoor activities increase, and society generally adopts a dynamic and adventurous mindset. Culturally, modern parkas have evolved from simple designs to more complex, layered styles, contrasting with the American fashion focus on simplicity and lightness. This cultural resurgence can be traced back to the slow-living ethos advocated by European aristocracy. Early American outdoor culture was heavily influenced by British gentleman culture. In today’s diverse, information-rich era, fashion trends are fragmenting, and grassroots street fashion forces are rising, reflecting in the parka’s design.

On the other hand, while parkas initially appeared as symbols of men's fashion, they have become prominent in modern women's fashion. One reason for this shift is the post-World War II trend of women’s fashion becoming more masculine, as exemplified by Coco Chanel. In contemporary times, enthusiasts of vintage military gear, primarily men, tend to focus on authentic historical parkas rather than innovation. They often seek high-quality replicas of World War II-era parkas and are willing to pay high prices for original vintage items.

4. ConclusionFashion has undergone numerous cultural cycles and transformations over the years. In the 21st century, the fashion industry is now driven by the millennial generation, who have abundant resources and purchasing power. For today’s consumers, particularly women, warmth is no longer the sole requirement. Increasingly, people seek not just the clothing itself but the historical value, cultural significance, and social responsibility associated with it. From this perspective, whether it’s vintage enthusiasts with military nostalgia, rebellious fans of mod culture, admirers of American casual outdoor style, or supporters of functionality and sustainability, the parka's cultural significance continues to thrive in fashion design.

References[1] Encyclopaedia Britannica Concise* [M]. Beijing: China Encyclopedia Publishing House, Volume 6, p. 370.
[2] Jiang Nan. *The Eskimos in the Peach Blossom Land* [J]. *Resources and Human Settlements*, 2009, Issue 04, pp. 79-80.
[3] Issenman, B. K. *The Art and Technique of Inuit Clothing* [OL] http://collections.musee-mccord.qc.ca/scripts/printtour.php?tourID=CW_InuitClothing_IK_EN&Lang=2, 2007.
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[5] Zhou Changhua, Liu Ruipu. *Gentlemen’s Dress IV: Outdoor Wear* [M]. Beijing: China Textile Publishing House, p. 26.
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[7]Qiu Yue, Liu Yunhua. *The Influence of American Military Uniforms on Modern Women's Fashion* [J]. *Ningbo Radio and Television University Journal*, 2015, Issue 02, pp. 118-122.



     
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